Let me start by saying that I’m not here to slam summer. In fact, as a June baby, I’m a big fan of the summer months—seemingly endless, full of long days spent in the sunshine, evenings that stretch on long after dinner, and, if you’re lucky, a Euro summer adventure thrown in for good measure. But there’s something special—dare I say magical—about the arrival of autumn.
The back-to-school feeling of popping into an indie bookstore for a brand new notebook. The coffee menus changing from a sea of chilly iced coffees to cozy concoctions of nutmeg, pumpkin, and maple. The crispness in the air that makes you want to pop on a new jacket, get outside and rediscover the city—totally changed by the jewel-like colors of the leaves—on foot. I’m perhaps (okay, most definitely) biased, but I truly believe that London is at its best in the autumn.
It’s like the whole city moves at a different pace—energized by the summer we’ve just had and excited for the festivities on the horizon. And then there’s the never-ending list of autumnal activities to enjoy. As someone who creates a new ‘autumn to-do list’ in my notes app each year (if you don’t believe me, just ask my Condé Nast Traveller UK colleagues), I felt it my duty to share my autumn-loving insider knowledge.
From morning cinnamon bun to evening martini, here’s
From morning cinnamon bun to evening martini, here’s how to spend a dreamy fall day in London. 9am: Coffee at Monmouth Coffee Co, Covent Garden
Start at Monmouth Street. Closest tube stations: Covent Garden (3 minutes), Leicester Square (5 minutes)
Tell me what could be a more fitting start to the day than a caffeine fix at London’s coziest coffee spot. There’s a real buzz in the air, both from the eager Londoners queuing patiently for their order, and from the heady fumes of roasting beans—piled up like mountains of glossy jewels behind the counter.
I love that despite the slight chill in the air, you’ll still find the scant tables and chairs outside absolutely packed with guests, hands wrapped around steaming coffee mugs. 10am: Cinnamon buns at St John at The London Review Bookshop, Bloomsbury
Walk north to Bloomsbury (15-20 minutes)
Bloomsbury is one of those parts of London that feels straight out of a romcom. Maybe it’s the literary ties (TS Eliot, Virginia Woolf, and Charles Dickens all called this neighborhood home), but there’s a definite September energy in this part of town.
So where better to head for a bite to eat than St John Bakery, which is right next to the St John Bakery? Cinnamon buns and sugar-dusted doughnuts with a side of literature. 11am: Shopping in Marylebone
Walk north-west towards Marylebone (20 minutes)
Marylebone feels made for an autumn day: leafy streets, smart Georgian terraces, and that unmistakable back-to-school feeling that only comes from a crisp morning walking past shops full of new-season delights.
Spend a couple of hours wandering between Marylebone
Spend a couple of hours wandering between Marylebone High Street, Marylebone Lane, and Chiltern Street, dipping into some of London’s best indie stores. Start at Daunt Books—because what’s more autumnal than the smell of new books?—before browsing the rails at KJ’s Laundry, checking out the treasures at Monocle, nipping into TOAST for lovely homewares, and finishing at James Smith & Son, a wonderfully old-school umbrella shop that couldn’t be more London if it tried.
1pm: Lunch in Marylebone
Time to settle somewhere cozy for lunch, and luckily Marylebone is home to some of my favourite spots in the city. The Hart has that old-school feel of a London pub that’s been around forever—nab a corner booth and don’t leave without trying their banoffee pie (it’s the best in the city). At Café Murano, Angela Hartnett’s Italian cooking is pure comfort on a plate (chicken Milanese!
Spicy sausage ragu! Tiramisu!) or head to Jikoni for an injection of warmth and spice thanks to Ravinder Bhogal’s masterful menu (tip: the prawn toast scotch egg is a must-order). 2:30pm: Culture at The Wallace Collection, Marylebone
Walk from Marylebone High Street to The Wallace Collection
There’s something quite romantic about getting lost in a gallery on a crisp autumn day
Conveniently, London is packed with them,
Conveniently, London is packed with them, but to avoid the crowds and see something a little different, The Wallace Collection in Manchester Square is a great way to spend an afternoon. If you catch it on a quieter day, you can pretend you’re Lady Wallace, walking from room to room while admiring the fine art from the 15th to 19th centuries that adorns the townhouse walls. 3:30pm: Walk through Hyde Park
Walk west via Portman Square and Marble Arch into Hyde Park (15-20 minutes)
Tell me what could possibly be more peak autumn than a walk through Hyde Park?
The leaves have turned from greens and ambers to burnt golds and rust, transforming the pavements as you crunch through the park. It’s London at its most beautiful. 5pm: Grocery shopping at Farm Shop Mayfair
Walk south-east through Hyde Park, exiting towards Park Lane and South Audley Street (20-25 minutes)
Nothing makes me feel equally grown-up and festive as browsing the aisles at Farm Shop.
Part of the Artfarm family, the smart grocery store is stocked with fancy items produced on its 1,000-acre Somerset farm. Do I need a bottle of batched espresso martini, a jar of chutney and a pain au chocolat? No. Am I buying them? What do you think…
5:30pm: Pints at The Audley, Mayfair
Walk north-west along South Audley Street to Mount Street (5 minutes)
Old man boozer this is not: The Audley is a particularly smart spot on Mayfair’s equally snazzy Mount Street, and it’s quite possibly the prettiest pub in the city.
An afternoon tucked into a corner
An afternoon tucked into a corner with a pint of Guinness and a packet of Taytos is one of my favorite ways to while away a rainy autumn afternoon. 6:30pm: Cocktails at The Connaught, Mayfair
Walk north-east
When I was compiling this perfect day and got onto the topic of cocktails, a very wise colleague said to me “a martini works for every season” and, quite frankly, I have to agree
I’ve tried a fair few martinis in this great city (let’s call it research) but nowhere does it quite like The Connaught. It’s a special experience from beginning to end, thanks mainly to the expertise of top pourer Agostino Perrone (with honorable mention to the excellent bar snacks that magically replenish themselves). 8pm: Dinner at Wiltons, St James’s
Walk south-east via Piccadilly and St James’s Street (15-20 minutes)
Leave it to London’s second-oldest restaurant to bring the autumn vibes.
Wiltons is, quite frankly, an institution; since opening its doors in 1742, this grande dame of London dining has welcomed statesmen, society figures, and the finest of foodies. Tuck into one of their cozy booths, surrounded by wood-panelled walls, gleaming silverware, and old-world charm, and settle down to classic British dishes (the twice-baked Stilton soufflé is a must) and impeccable service.
The perfect spot to end a perfect autumn day.
